CycleOps - Cycling Computers, Power Meters, Indoor Bike Trainers and Cycles

The G3 PowerCap is not rechargeable. The USB connection is used for service and for firmware updates only. The PowerCap should not be left connected to the USB port for long periods. Doing so could drain the battery.

No, the G3 hub is now fully ANT+ compatible and will only work with the Joule or other ANT+ compatible device.  The previous Plus series hubs still sent a signal on the CycleOps network that the Yellow CPU used.  That signal is no longer sent by the G3 hub; however, the Pro hub does still work with the Yellow CPU.

• Perform a “find” by pushing and holding both the MODE and SELECT buttons until “Find” appears, then let go. Be sure your device is broadcasting a signal (spin the PowerTap wheel, HR strap is on, magnet is passing by spd/cd sensor). The computer will search for and find the device, indicated by the transmission icon in upper left of CPU.
• You may need to navigate to COMPUTER SET UP 5 and “learn” the five-digit ID from the hub, HR strap or Speed/Cadence sensor.  Directions on how to “learn” wireless devices can be found on pages 19 and 27 of the product manual.  If the first digit is flashing after the search has timed out, it has failed and there appears to be no transmission.  Check batteries or try other devices to check against and isolate working from non-working devices.
• Ensure your device has fresh batteries to eliminate this as a possibility.  Directions on how to change your PowerTap’s hub and CPU batteries can be found here.  Be sure to “re-learn” the device ID after changing batteries (pages 27-28 of manual).
• If you have a Joule 2.0 or Joule 3.0, please visit our FAQs dedicated to Joule (far right tab)

• The torque must be frequently zeroed to ensure the most accurate power information is displayed.  If the current power display is positive or negative while coasting the torque must be zeroed.  This operation must be done while stopped with no tension on the chain or pedals, and the transmission icon illuminated.
• Directions on how to zero the torque can be found on page 9 of the product manual.

The torque may not be zeroed.  Zero the torque as described on page 9 in the product manual.

• The yellow CPU has a scrolling menu.  Push and hold both the MODE and SELECT buttons simultaneously and let go when it says “SEt Edt 12345”.  This is the COMPUTER SETUP Main Menu.  Please note that letting go of both buttons when it says “Find” will search for already-learned sensors and letting go when it says “-Clr-” will clear all your ride data on the CPU.  More information regarding the SETUP Main Menu can be found on page 19 of the product manual.

E = exit, return to ride mode
d = restore default settings
t = test mode
1 2 3 4 5 = setup menus

Updating your 2.4 wireless hub to ANT+ requires installation of the latest CPU firmware 7.60. Download the latest version of PowerAgent Software here and update the CPU firmware by clicking [Tools>Firmware>Check for Firmware Update] in PowerAgent with your CPU connected and recognized.  For more information please visit the PowerAgent FAQs.

Ensure you have the proper device IDs “learned” in COMPUTER SETUP 5 (page 27 of manual).  If you aren’t receiving transmission, “re-learn” the device IDs and ensure you get a solid, five-digit ID.  Perform a “find” and you should regain transmission.  More details about the “learn” and “find” processes are in above FAQs.

1. Remove the battery cover from the sensor
2. Remove the battery
3. Locate the small, blue switch. Flip it to Cadence or Speed, depending on the desired functionality
4. Re-insert the battery
5. Install the battery cover
6. Learn the sensor to CPU in COMPUTER SETUP 5 (pages 27-28 of manual)
7. Ensure your CPU is customized to receive cadence data properly in COMPUTER SETUP 4 (page 26 of manual)

• Computer or chest strap batteries are low: replace batteries as necessary while referencing the product manual. You may need to “re-learn” the HR strap ID through COMPUTER SETUP 5 (page 27).
• The HR strap is not positioned properly.  Please review tips found on page 8 in the product manual.

You will need to enter the rim measurements, along with the correct PowerTap hub dimensions shown below, and the cross pattern into a spoke calculator to determine the necessary spoke length. For additional questions please contact your local CycleOps dealer.

Note: PowerTap hubs must be laced with a minimum 2 cross pattern to avoid damage to the hub and maintain the warranty.

Numerous differences exist between PowerTap and Garmin computers in regards to how data is displayed. To ensure minimal differences, you should verify the wheel circumference is correctly entered into both devices and that both devices handle ride stops, pauses, and resumption the same way. Garmin computers typically measure distance (and speed, depending on setup options) based on GPS data, and does not use the auto-pause feature by default. PowerTap computers measure speed based on wheel speed and distance based on the number of wheel rotations and uses an auto-pause by default. Garmin calculates average power output without zeros, while PowerTap does not by default, but there is a setting to change this (on both Garmin and PowerTap computers).  Directions on how to change settings on the PowerTap computer (SETUP 3) can be found on page 25 of the product manual. Garmin does offer a POD that allows the 705 to read speed and distance using a similar approach to the PowerTap. Garmin computers tend to apply more smoothing to the data, which can cause discrepancies when compared to PowerTap computers.  PowerTap smoothing options can be changed in COMPUTER SETUP 2 (page 24).

Wheel size is incorrect. Refer to the Table 4 on page 22 in the product manual and enter the correct size in COMPUTER SETUP 1.

• Batteries need replacement.
• Computer is not properly seated (wired models).  Make sure the computer is firmly seated on the mount. Check wire for damage.
• Interference from other devices
• Incorrectly mounted receiver (wired models).  Make sure the receiver is mounted correctly. “Shark fin” shaped receivers work better when they are mounted closer to the hub.

• Hub is asleep – spin the wheel momentarily to wake up the hub and then “find” the hub by pushing and holding both the MODE and SELECT buttons simultaneously and letting go when it says, “Find”.
• Batteries need replacement – replace the hub batteries as shown in this article
• Computer not seated in mount (wired models) – make sure computer is firmly and correctly mounted in handlebar mount. There is no marker that tells you the computer is clicked in. It simply needs to be pushed on all the way.
• Communication errors – verify that the receiver computer mount does not have a damaged wire or connector.
• Moisture in hub – remove the battery cover on the non drive side (you’ll need a hub cap wrench) to see if there is any condensation on the battery cover. If there is, leave cover off in a dry place for 12 hours or until moisture disappears. Be sure that when replacing battery cover you have all the necessary seals in place and that you lightly grease the battery cover for a better seal.
• Interference with other devices – make sure you are not setting up the PowerTap inside a building with a lot of electrical noise, neon signs, or near power lines. Bring the PowerTap outside or away from the electrical disturbance to see if signal returns. Also remove other speed sensors, computers and magnets.
• PowerTap CPU batteries are low – replace batteries as shown in this article. We recommend using a cone wrench to remove the battery cap, not a coin.
• Heart rate mode –the computer may be in heart rate only mode. Check the product manual to return the computer to normal power mode.

• The computer may be asleep. Press one of the buttons on the computer to wake up the computer.
• Batteries need replacement—replace the battery.
• Is the computer is too cold?  Optimum operating temperature is 30-100 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Battery contact inside the computer may be depressed. Remove the battery cover and battery to expose the silver battery contact. There should be sufficient spring in this tab. If there is not, GENTLY pull up on the contact to reform it.

The PowerTap CPU allows you to change the data collection rate in COMPUTER SETUP 1. When you set up the PowerTap CPU (press MODE and SELECT buttons simultaneously until you get to the SETUP menu) you can select data collection for every one second or every two seconds. If you select one second the PowerTap will record up to 15 hours of data. If you select two seconds you will record up to 30 hours of data.

• PowerTap cadence is accurate within 40 rpm and 130 rpm. Anything outside of this range will be recorded as a zero. Since the cadence measurement is a virtual cadence (based off of torque measurements) and not measured with an extra sensor it cannot read values outside of this range.
• If you’re using the cadence separate cadence sensor, make sure the sensor is paired to the computer.

• Ensure the hub is awake. Perform a “find” on the CPU and spin the wheel to activate the sensor.
• Zero the torque (see above FAQ).
• Replace the batteries in the hub and relearn the Hub ID in COMPUTER SETUP 5.  Then perform a “find”.
• Your computer may be in bike computer mode. The word WATTS should be displayed under the top row on the display. If it’s not displayed, refer to page 26 of the product manual to return the computer to power mode.

To prevent Garmin computers from detecting multiple power meters, it is best to pair the PowerTap and computer about 50 feet from any other active power meters.

You can order the replacement here.

Small parts can be found in the small parts section of our accessories menu.

Please see our warranty page for more information.

• Wind: The wind provides progressive resistance with a fan blade design. It is simple, inexpensive, with good road-feel, but noise levels increase quickly with your wheel speed.
• Magnetic: Uses magnetic resistance with three resistance levels. It is a perfect trainer for novice riders who simply want to log some miles over the winter.
• Magnetic Plus: Same unit as above, but with a handlebar-mounted remote control, which enables a wider selection of resistance levels at your fingertips.
• Magneto: The only magnetic trainer on the market with progressive resistance. Extraordinary road-feel, an elegant design, and a very quiet ride. Includes Cam Lever for easy adjustment of resistance unit. Resistance range is more than adequate for most enthusiast riders, but Sprinters, Clydesdales, and Mountain-Goats, please read on...
• Fluid 2: The Fluid trainer is the quietest trainer we made, and offers the widest range of progressive resistance. Spin along with virtually no resistance or hammer out a 2000-watt sprint. You will never outgrow this trainer. Includes Cam Lever for easy adjustment of resistance unit.

When you're riding your bicycle outside, wind resistance increases exponentially according to your speed. It's more than twice as difficult to ride at 20 mph than at 10 mph. The best stationary trainers offer built-in progressive resistance: pedaling faster or shifting the gears on your bike results in increasing resistance. With linear resistance, you lose this road-feel. Pedaling faster or shifting your gears has little effect, other than spinning your rear wheel faster.

A trainer is designed to work on strength and endurance training and typically provide more resistance than rollers. Riding rollers promotes good balance and a smooth pedal stroke. Many people incorporate both in their off-season training. So, it depends on your training goals as to which one is right for you.

You want to make sure the tire does not slip when accelerating or sprinting. It will depend on the tire size. A good rule of thumb for units with the resistance knob is 2.5 to 3 complete turns of the resistance unit knob once the roller hits the tire. For units with the Cam Lever, turn the Cam Lever enough so that when the Cam Lever is parallel to the ground, it is constantly just touching the rear wheel. Then push the Cam Lever to the locked position.

It is possible that the quick-release skewer of your bike's rear wheel may not fit well in the trainer's cones. Use the skewer provided with the trainer for the best fit. If your bike does not have a rear wheel skewer, but uses nuts, you may need to replace the nuts with "track nuts," which have a built-in flange and can improve the fit of the bike in the trainer. For replacing or changing axle nuts, please see your local bike shop.

Yes. You can purchase new resistance units if your original trainer was manufactured after 1999. Please call your local dealer or our customer service department for details. 1-800-783-7257.

CycleOps Power utilizes ANT+ technology to ensure a robust and reliable connection between the various sensors used in our products. However, there is a limit to the number of sensors that can operate in a given environment. Practically speaking, when riding by yourself or with others using less than 30 total ANT+ sensors, you should see no more than a 1% loss in data due to communication errors in your sensors. However, in an environment with more than 30 total ANT+ sensors you may see an increase in communication errors.

All sensors operating in a group enviromnent should be positioned at least 2 meters apart from each other to ensure minimal signal interference between devices.

There are three different resistance type to select between target power, target slope and gearing. To change resistance types press the joystick in. It is recommended that when doing a manual ride (i.e. not a preprogrammed workout), to stay in either target power or target slope and not switch between resistance types. When riding within target slope, be sure to change the gear.

Make sure the 400 Pro indoor cycle is plugged in.

The 400 Pro indoor cycle will act as a progressive resistance trainer. The faster you pedal, the more difficult the resistance.

The 400 Pro indoor cycle uses a controlled resistance motor to help you target training (power or slope). Example if target watts is set to 100 and you speed up the resistance becomes much easier and if you slow down the resistance becomes much harder, because the motor is trying to keep you at that specific target power.

The yellow resistance knob doesn’t move manually to adjust resistance because the resistance is adjusted electronically by the resistance button on the Joule 3.0. The resistance button is controlling an electronic motor in the down tube of the indoor cycle. On the 400 Pro indoor cycle the resistance knob only acts as an emergency brake.

Power Zones are simply ranges of wattage that you determine based on your lactate threshold (LT) value. Often, they are percentages of your LT value. Power Zones are used to control your training and gauge how hard you train. Consult a coach for more information for Power Zone training.

Due to external factors of riding a bike outside versus riding a solid indoor cycle, you may experience different values on your PowerTap. Also, with the special design of the flywheel, inertia plays much bigger role in your workout on the CycleOps indoor cycle versus riding your bike on the road. For instance, a larger effort is required to get your indoor cycle flywheel up to a certain speed, but due to inertia, the flywheel will spin much longer than a regular bicycle wheel, resulting in less work being required to maintain that predesigned speed.

The CycleOps indoor cycles are a standalone unit. They cannot be wired to other third party virtual reality software.

First be sure to double-check all electrical connections are properly attached (hub batteries, cadence and/or speed sensor batteries).

CycleOps PowerTap utilizes the ANT+ technology to ensure a robust and reliable connection between the various sensors used in our products. However, there is a limit to the number of sensors that can operate in a given environment. Practically speaking, when riding by yourself or with others using less than 30 total ANT+ sensor, you should see no more than 1% loss in data due to communication errors in your sensors. However, in an environment with more than 30 total ANT+ sensors you may see an increase in communication errors.

On the previous home models the perception of our speed was a bit high. We changed the settings in later models to make the speed more accurately feel like that of a road ride. Cadence was calculated more accurately based on gear ration as well. Make sure you have the latest version of firmware.

Make sure you have a CycleOps indoor cycle model with a PowerTap. If there is not a PowerTap in the flywheel you will not have watts. Verify the correct power ID is learned into the display.

The display needs to be “woken up” in order to operate. To wake up the display, simply press any button on the display (note: pressing a joystick will not wake the display).

If you have the resistance knob turned all the way to full resistance, and you still feel like you need more resistance, you may check (on the previous home models) to see if your cables have stretched. If the cables have stretched, you are not utilizing the full range of resistance available. You may also adjust the tension using the quick adjust barrel located at the rear brakes. You may check (on the previous club and current Pro Series models) to see if the brake pad needs to be adjusted. Loose the bolts and adjust the brake pad accordingly. Reference the User Guide.

The previous club models have a proprietary CycleOps USB stick that allows users to have their specific information saved onto the USB stick (heart rate and zones). The current Pro Series models work with Joule 3.0 and need the Multi User Accessory kit and allow for any off the shelf USB stick.

No. At this time there is no upgrade option.

The height range is 4 feet 11 inches to 6 feet 6 inches. The height range is an approximate as inseam plays are large role in the fit of the indoor cycle. CycleOps offers two seat options. Contact Customer Service for options. The weight limit is 300 pounds.

The CycleOps indoor cycle flywheel weighs 48 pounds. The CycleOps indoor cycles were designed to make the unit ride and look like an actual outdoor bike. By moving the flywheel to the rear, we were able to more closely mimic not only the look of a real bike but also the feel. Finally, by locating the flywheel in the rear of the indoor cycle, we were able to keep it out of the “sweat zone” and thereby avoid contamination from sweat, leading to a longer life of the flywheel and resistance brake pad.

It is recommended that you wipe down the CycleOps indoor cycles down after each use. Do not us any harsh cleaners or chemicals. Avoid spraying any cleaners directly onto the CycleOps indoor cyles.

The CycleOps indoor cycles is 48 inches x 13 inches x 34 inches (length x width x height).The weight is 140 pounds.

Currently all CycleOps indoor cycle models come with a 170mm crank arm length and a Q factor of 168mm (outside to outside). At this time, the 170mm crank arms are the only lengths available.

Yes, the CycleOps indoor cycle was designed to allow you to recreate your outdoor ride a closly as possible. To achieve this the Indoor Cycle will work with any standard bike saddle and pedals.

The CycleOps indoor cycles come with a dual-sided pedal. One side is flat with a toe clip and strap, and the other side is SPD-compatible. Cleats are not included.

All indoor cycles ship with a CycleOps road style handlebar. We offer a CycleOps specific aero style handlebar accessory that is compatible with previous club models and current Pro Series models. The previous home models are not compatible with the CycleOps specific aero style handlebar accessory, due to the resistance in the handlebar. The aero handlebar can be purchased here.

Occasionally, a rattling noise may come from the drive train of the indoor cycle. This is usually caused by incorrect chain tension. A chain that is too loose or too tight can cause noise. If you are unfamiliar with the adjustment protocol for bicycle drive trains, consult your local Authorized CycleOps Indoor Cycle Dealer to have your indoor cycle serviced.

The CycleOps indoor cycles have items on them that will need to be maintained, just like an outdoor bike, things like: the brake pads, cables, chain, etc need to be maintained. Over time, the chain will stretch and need to be tightened in order to maximize the life of the cog as well as the chain. The chain will also need to be lubed monthly with a spray-type Teflon-based lubricant. CycleOps sells appropriate lubricant. Contact Customer Service for placing an order for part number 18087. The brake pads will wear down over time and will need to be replaced. Your local Authorized CycleOps Indoor Cycle Dealer can make all repairs.

Be sure all leveling feet on the underside of the bike are touching the ground. If the locking nuts have not been tightened, the feet could inadvertently threat up into the stabilizer, resulting in a foot that is not touching the ground.

No. Each flywheel must go through a stringent quality control checklist before it is installed on all CycleOps indoor cycles. You might experience some wobble due to the design of the PowerTap equipped flywheels. They require that all the parts be threaded onto the axle. Sometimes, if a part is not threaded perfectly, you will witness a small amount of “runout”. More often than not, the flywheel may have shifted in shipping and just needs to be properly aligned in the dropouts. Contact your local Authorized CycleOps Indoor Cycle Dealer.

Joule drivers are installed with power agent.  If you feel you need these, reinstall power agent and make sure the install Joule drivers box is checked.

Drivers for the Cervo, little yellow CPU, are available here http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM20814_Setup.exe

PowerAgent 7.5 is compatible with Windows and Mac OS X 10.4.

You need to download Java; our software is written in Java and will not properly function if you do not have the latest version of Java

Java os available to download from www.java.com . For Mac users, use the software update under Apple.

1. Open PowerAgent and select the ride you'd like to email to your coach.
2. Go to File -> Export -> Activity Data
3. Save the ride as a .csv file. The name will be your username and the ride date/time.  You can change it to whatever you would like.
4. Open your email client.
5. Attach the .csv file you just created to your email.
6. Send it to your coach.

There could be a number of reasons why your data isn’t downloading.

First make sure you have the latest version of power agent available here

Second make sure your CPU is fully seated on the cradle, is on, and reads HOST on the screen.

Due to regular updates to Windows, some PowerAgent users may experience problems connecting to and downloading from their Cervo (yellow CPU).  If you are having this problem, download the latest Windows drivers at http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM20814_Setup.exe

The download process will automatically move the data from past versions of PowerAgent 7.0 and newer to PowerAgent 7.5.  If the transfer doesn’t happen automatically close power agent and delete the CycleOps folder.  This folder is located in the My Documents folder in windows, and Documents on a Mac

However, if you have PowerAgent 5.0, export all of your ride data. Ride data will save to the location ‘PowerAgent/Data/Export’. Copy the contents of this folder to a safe location on your computer where you know where to find it. When you uninstall PowerAgent 5.0, PowerAgent/Data/Export will be wiped out and you will lose all your ride history if you do not copy the contents of this folder and move it out of this directory.  After you uninstall PowerAgent 5.0 install PowerAgent 7.5 and import your old ride data.

The conversion from a ride to a workout relies on elevation data. You’ll need a Garmin or a Joule file to create a workout.

In PowerAgent 7.5 and newer, all your files are saved in My Documents/CycleOps for Windows and Documents/CycleOps for Mac. Transfer the CycleOps folder from one computer to another.  If you have already downloaded rides onto your new computer, you will need to export those rides and delete the existing CycleOps folder.  Once you have the old ride data moved you can import your new rides.

Older versions of power agent use a specific repository folder.  You will need to locate that folder and move it to the same location on your new computer.

MAC: ~/.poweragent/repository

Windows (through XP): C:\Documents and Settings\<user name>\.poweragent\repository

Windows Vista: C:\Users\<user name>\.poweragent\repository

Back up these folders: My Documents/CycleOps for Windows and Documents/CycleOps for Mac.

The CSV file you exported is a collection of ride data as it happened. Once your coach imports the ride file into PowerAgent or another software program the graphs will be recreated.

Check smoothing and sampling factors within PowerAgent. Make sure you clear the PowerTap computer before riding. Also, ensure the correct user is selected within PowerAgent—the wrong zones and weight will skew the data.

Firmware is the programming that runs your Cervo or Joule Computer.

To update your firmware, Plug your PowerTap computer into your computer with the USB cradle or USB cable. Within PowerAgent go to Tools -> Firmware -> Check for Firmware Update. Make sure you’re connected to the internet. PowerAgent 7.5 will also automatically alert you when new firmware is available.

Open the PowerAgent software on your computer. In the top menu, choose Help -> About. the About window that pops up will list the version of the software.

Make sure you have a user created. If you can’t see the user window, go to Windows -> Show User Window.

Update your Joule to the latest firmware and relearn the hub.  If you are using a Joule that hasn’t been updated, make sure you learn your G3 hub as an ANT+ device, not a power tap.

Any off the shelf mini USB stick to standard USB stick cable will work. If you own a Blackberry® or digital camera you already have this download cable.

Make sure you have the latest version of PowerAgent. Click here to download the latest version.

Make sure the download cable is plugged into your computer and Joule.

Make sure Joule is turned on. To turn Joule on press Mode or Interval button. The Home button will also work on the Joule 3.0.

Make sure you have “stopped and saved” a ride. To stop and save; hold Mode button for 2 seconds until Ride Paused screen appears. Select “stop and save”.

Micro SDHC cards are not supported, i.e., any card larger than 2 gig.

3 of the 4 joystick directions are currently disabled from turning on the Joule. We’re working on a future enhancement to disable the 4th direction.

You don’t. It just goes to sleep.

There may be a short ride that can bring down your averages. Find the offending history file and delete it through Window Explorer. Cycleops/history/file name.bin

How would this occur? A rider completes a hard ride and hits “stop and save” as they’re pulling into the driveway. As they’re rolling the bike into the garage a new ride is created 15 seconds long with an average of 0 power. This short ride then gets factored into the averages. Consider using the “stop and delete” function.

VAM – How quickly the rider is climbing a hill. The rate of ascent in meters/hour. This feature is most effectively used in interval mode. Start an interval at the bottom of a large climb. Stop the interval at the top. See how quickly you’re gaining elevation.

Normalized Power – An estimate of the power the rider could have maintained for the same physiological “cost” if the output power was constant.

IF – Comparison (ratio) of a ride’s normalized power to the rider’s threshold value.

TSS – Training stress score: an estimation of a ride’s total difficultly based on glycogen burned.

[Normalized Power, IF and TSS are registered trademarks of Peaksware, LLC http://www.trainingpeaks.com]

The information is stored in the history files after a “stop and save.”

Both the Joule and the Garmin use a barometric pressure sensor to determine elevation. The Garmin also uses GPS as part of the calculation to negate the effects of weather. Weather can affect barometric pressure and how the Joule computes elevation. Cloudy days are typically low pressure and will create an artificially high elevation. Bright sunny days are typically high pressure and will create an artificially low elevation.

You need to stop and save the ride before the history file is created.

Note that the “end ride time” can be set to 90, 60, 30, 15 min or “never.” Default is “never.”

The Garmin uses a different altitude value based on both barometric pressure and GPS while the Joule uses just barometric pressure. Additionally, the Garmin and Joule use different averaging routines to calculate feet gained and lost.

The temperature sensor is embedded in the packaging and takes some time (30 min) to equilibrate. Short rides or quick temperature spikes may not register with the Joule.

Additionally, there is some self heating from the electronics of when placed in direct sunlight.